NOTE: This is an old post. Click here for the 2020-2021 Fur Market Update.
Nothing has changed, and everything’s changed. That’s the story of the fur market heading into the 2019-2020 fur selling season. The demand for raw fur remains where it’s been for years – quite low. The Chinese and Russian economies continue to struggle along, meaning our biggest fur buying countries just aren’t consuming much fur. On the supply side, however, the entire market has been shifted upside down.
The NAFA Debacle
North American Fur Auctions, the largest seller of wild fur in North America, is going bankrupt. After years of struggling with finances amidst rock bottom fur prices, the company dug itself a hole it couldn’t get out of. The vast majority of NAFA’s business is in ranch mink, and their strategy of financially backing struggling mink ranchers backfired. It appears that NAFA is going to be acquired, or merged, with Saga Furs, a Finnish auction company that only deals in ranched fur. Saga has no interest in wild fur, and thus NAFA won’t be accepting wild fur in 2019-2020.
Fur Selling Options
Fur Harvesters Auction, Inc., a wild fur company first and foremost, is still in business and plans to offer a huge collection of wild fur in the coming season. FHA is gearing up to have the capacity to take a lot of the fur that NAFA used to receive, and I’d encourage folks who haven’t shipped before to give FHA a shot. Groenewold Fur and Wool Company is also gearing up to take more fur, and is expanding routes into new states beyond its normal buying area. You can also ship your fur to GFWCO. They’ll grade it and offer a price. If you don’t like the price, they’ll ship it back on their dime. A number of small fur buyers will still be operating and remain a good option for selling your fur. Keep in mind that many country fur buyers bought your fur and shipped it off to NAFA. With this option gone, the country buyers that remain won’t be willing to take on added risk, and may not pay much for fur until some market certainty returns. That said, a savvy buyer with an appetite for risk could do quite well over the next year or two.
Broad Fur Price Outlook
We’ve struggled with low fur prices for a long time, but over the past few years I’ve predicted the low prices would bottom and start to rebound around 2020. That prediction is based on the production cycle for ranch fur and the clearing of the overproduction of fur in the market. That is happening right now. After several years of rock bottom prices, mink ranchers around the world have pelted out and gone out of business over the past 2-3 years. Their excess production continues to work through the supply chain, and there won’t be nearly as many ranch mink entering the market until a couple of years after fur prices recover.
As a general rule, most wild fur follows ranch fur prices. That’s because if given a choice, buyers prefer the ranch product due to its large quantities of uniform goods. It just makes large scale production of most items much easier. When ranch fur gets expensive, it is often substituted with wild fur, and wild fur prices go up. So as the availability of ranch mink and fox dries up, and demand returns, we should begin to see increasing prices of wild mink, muskrat, beaver, otter, raccoon and fox. That’s a big ‘if’, but I think we’re headed in that direction.
The fur market also depends on demand from the major fur consuming countries, mainly Russia and China. Both countries’ economies are struggling, and the strength of the U.S. Dollar makes fur even more expensive for them to purchase. The lack of a solid trade deal with China has been a challenge as well. Most folks would look at these factors and think we’re in a worst case scenario for fur across the board. I look at them and see a bottom that the market should begin crawling out of over the next couple of years.
2019-2020 Market
With so many uncertainties around how wild fur will be sold this year, it will be challenging to track the market and prices. Without NAFA to go to, buyers will be looking to FHA, as well as a number of medium and large regional fur buyers like Groenewold, Zander, Petska, etc. Trappers may have a tough time deciding where to sell. State association fur sales should see an uptick in attendance, and a lot of fur may remain in freezers until some certainty arises in the market. That said, I do not expect fur prices to go any lower this year than they’ve been the past couple of years. We’ve hit the bottom, and the only question is how long it’ll be until we see recovery. I look forward to watching this new fur market unfold.
Fashion vs. Utility
The fur market is driven by two types of consumer demand: fashion and utility. Fashion trends often drive the high end market for select high quality pelts, and can help support high fur prices for specific items. For instance, the beautiful white black-spotted furs worn by affluent women in Russia is supporting the market for top end Western bobcats. The fur-trimmed hoods on Canada Goose parkas is driving the incredible demand for coyotes. Other furs like muskrat and otter have benefitted from fashion trends in the past. This can be great for fur prices, but can be devastating when the fashion trends go away.
Fur is consumed as a utility in many places due to its incredible warmth, durability and functionality. Populations in cold climates wear lots of fur, and consume most of what’s not used in the fashion market. This is great for items not supported by fashion trends, like raccoon and muskrat, but utility demand can challenge fur prices because consumers aren’t paying a great deal for these items, and price doesn’t react as well to shorter supply, since demand tops out at a certain price point, above which consumers just can’t afford.
2019-2020 Fur Price Forecast
Coyote
The coyote market has been the one exception to the low fur market the past several years. The success of Canada Goose and their high end parkas trimmed with coyote fur has been the sole driver of coyote prices, and this should continue into the upcoming fur season. The best quality Western coyotes should average $70-100, with semi heavy Westerns and top quality Easterns averaging $40-50. If demand continues to be strong, it can bring up demand for coyotes from the South and Midwest, but these prices could be volatile, likely ranging from $15-30.
Beaver
Outside of the hatter market, where beaver pelts are ground up and used to make felt hats, the demand for beaver has been almost nonexistent lately, and the spread between low end and high end beaver has all but disappeared. Most beaver will continue to average $10-14 regardless of where they are produced. There is a possibility, however, to see some upside in this market if some of the traditional uses for beaver start to come back in style with fewer ranch mink pelts on the market. If that occurs, we could see $15-20 averages for beaver from the better sections.
Muskrat
Expect $3-4 averages for rats this year, with potential for some upside. With fewer ranch mink on the horizon, we could see higher prices as the season unfolds.
Mink
Wild mink have been low for a long time, and with furriers often substituting ranch mink with muskrats, it may take more movement in the overall market for mink prices to recover. Expect around $5 for females and possibly $8-10 for males.
Otter
Just like they have the past few seasons, otter should average around $20-30 this year.
Raccoon
Some demand is beginning to develop for the higher quality raccoon pelts that come from the upper Midwest. Much of this is likely driven by lower priced substitutes for the popular coyote-trimmed parkas. The better coons could average $10-15. There is a great deal of variability in coon pelt, both in size and fur thickness. Lower end coon may average $5 or less, and some may not be sellable until the market develops further.
Red Fox
The market hasn’t had much use for red fox in recent years, but the price should maintain a bottom of $10-15. Ranch fox are going through the same overproduction and financial troubles as the mink industry is, and lower quantities of ranch goods may help wild fox a bit.
Bobcat
The cat market has recently been characterized by a huge price difference between the high and low ends of pelt quality. The top Western cats with wide white, spotted bellies are still in demand for the high end fashion market and should continue to average $300-400, but this market is highly specialized and doesn’t have much use for the rest of the cats. Bobcats from most other parts of the country should average $30-60, with some falling in between the two extremes.
Lynx, Marten and Fisher
Demand for these three items is specialized and not very strong as of late. Lynx have moved along at $60-70 averages for years, and should continue at this level until something changes. Marten experienced weakness late last season, which points to potentially lower prices this season, at least until the unsold goods work their way through the market. Most lower 48 marten should average $20-40, while the big and dark Alaskan and Canadian marten may bring $50-60, with some upward movement potential later in the season. Fisher prices can fluctuate widely, and may bounce around between $20-40 this year, with potential for upside.
My name is Don Hightower. I am president of Texas Trappers and Fur Hunters Assoc. Your Trapping
Today Fur Market Forecast appeared on my Google news brief rotation. Was wondering if this could be posted to our TTFHA web site, or if I could send a copy of it to our officers and directors?
It is very well written, with valuable current information. I’m not very tech savvy, but I did sign up
for the email updates. Thanks!
Yes, feel free to distribute, thanks!
I just have a question. If I’m not a trapper or a licensed fur dealer could I sell a few pelts? I was cleaning a house out and come across a few coyote pelts and I’m just wondering if I could legally sell them.
I’m from Minnesota and you would need a trappers license or hunting license to sell to a fur buyer. You could sell to a private buyer without a license I believe?
I have a raccoon fiur coat that I want to sell do you know anyone that could buy it?
Try Ebay or what ever. I’d love to have a Racoon coat. Beaver are even nicer? Sleek, “glossy” black. Heavy, and warm.
Hi there,
It’s my first year trapping and I have had this question on my mind for a while. Can I sell a whole animal or do I have to skin, flesh, dry a pelt before I can sell it? Thanks all!!!
The animal has to be harvested skinned and dried before you can try to sell the fur. Otherwise rot will happen and all will be lost.
You can sell it whole but your going to get a lot lower of a price for it
I trap a lot of fur and I don’t dry, stretch much of it. You would have to freeze the animal if you want to sell it later otherwise of course it would rot. I skin my “rats” and then roll them up fur side out and stuff them in a bread bag and put them in a freezer. A bread bag will hold many pelts. Same with Racoon. We’ve got HUGE coons here in Minnesota and a very large coon will fit in a bread bag. Red and Grey fox the same. The day before you want to sell take them out of the freezer, bread bag and let them unthaw at room temp. The fur buyer will want to see the inside of the pelt, usually. Get yourself a “pet brush” with wire brissels and brush the fur before you sell also. Like you’d brush a dog or cat. Make sure the fur is dry before you freeze it also. Send me an email Hunter Huhn and I’ll send you some advice that I’ve learned from 40 years of trapping. I’ll give you some tips on preparing your traps that will make them twice as good as that new “crap” right out of the box. I was at my fur dealers one day about 20 years ago and some “long-line” coon trappers were there and they had about 400 Racoons. Most of them unskinned! Had them in a refrigerated semi trailer. The whole trailer was stuffed with coons. All caught with 220 conibears in a 5 gal. bucket. I never use that bucket set myself because we hunt coons at night with dogs and if a dog gets caught in a 220 bucket set the dog is DEAD!!!
Hunter Huhn. I’m going to be buying some new footholds can you give me some tips and tricks on how to get rid of the scent and how to be most productive with new sets please and thank you
Adam. I like to use “Speed Black”. That’s a brand name. The only problem is the product must be mixed with gasoline. So you must “hang” your traps and let them “dry” for at least a week. Good product though. At least 2 quarts product and then follow directions on the can for the gas. A clean 5 gallon bucket with a lid works good. When your finished put the lid on the 5 gallon bucket with the mixture in it and save it and reuse it. Or as we used to do before “Speed Black” would be to boil the traps in a mixture of “Logwood crystals” and water. You’ll need a metal container for the crystals method because of the heat involved. Do this stuff outside. Put the ring/swivel at the end of the trap chain in between the jaws of the trap so the dye will penetrate (color) the inside of the jaw. The “old-timers” used to boil their traps in “Walnut” hulls. Ever noticed that when you pick-up walnuts off the ground from under a Walnut tree the “hulls” will “stain” your fingers black/purple. Takes many days to wear the stain off. Don’t be so concerned with scent, OK? I mean you can’t be “dirty” but don’t worry about it. Rubber or cloth gloves are fine. I use cloth gloves for Fox trapping and rubber gloves or “bare” handed while water trapping. Depends on the temperture? Keep your “clean” traps in a clean 5 gallon bucket with a lid on it. If your traps are to be used for Fox trapping you could throw a small clean rag/cloth glove that has been sprayed with Fox urine into that bucket, then the lid. I spray all my Fox trapping cloth gloves with fox urine before a set any ways so what the Hell? If you spray your Fox trapping gloves with Fox urine, every thing you touch around that set will smell “FOXY”. That’s what you want. And that Fox scent/urine will be from a “strange, unknown Fox. That with make the local/resident Fox even more curious, so they’ll “work” your set. What I’ve learned over the years is that Location is probably the most important factor. Location, location, location. If you live in the lower 48 and in or near populated areas these “critters” smell Humans every day! Farmers working their fields. Cars and trucks roaring down near by roads. Barking dogs. That’s why these “critters” are mostly nocturnal. Muskrats and Mink will move in daylight though if not bothered too much.
Hi again Adam. I have a nephew named Adam. Small World. You didn’t mention what species you are trapping? Here’s what I’d suggest. Racoons, Red and Grey Fox, Muskrats and Mink; 1 1/2 double coil springs. Victor or Duke, or something simular. Then I add 3 feet of chain to each trap (swivel) with a “J” hook. ( I used to buy the chain in 100 ft. rolls = 33 chains ). I suppose you could go to a hardware store and just buy the chains “cut” right at the store 3 ft. long also) Those 1 1/2 double coils will come new with a short chain (6 in.) with a swivel at the end of the chain. The short chains work well for Fox trapping with a “dirt-hole”. You can drive your stake right down through that swivel. Works very well. Drive the stake deep in the ground at the set and then “bury” the chain on top of the stake., then cover with “firmed “dirt. Then finish your set. Make sure your trap is set “firmly” into the dirt. If the Fox steps on any part of the trap ( jaws, spring tabs ) other than the trap “pan” and the trap “wobbles or moves”…. and that Fox is “GONE”! (Remember, that Fox might have come into contact with another trapper before you in your area using that same dirt hole set that EVERBODY uses and “MISSED” him. pinched his toes or had a trap “snap” in his face. Now you have a SMART Fox)
Stakes…… 1/2 in diameter steel rebar, each stake cut 12 inches long. Have a “shop” make them for you. Buy a steel washer that fits tight over the rerod but is LARGER in diameter on the outside of the washer, than the inside diameter of the swivel on the trap chain. Have the “shop” weld one washer to the rerod about an inch from the top of the rerod. That way when you “pound” your stake into the ground at your set you won’t be “hitting” that washer and breaking it. You’ll be hitting the end/top of the rerod. The rerod getting “smashed” on one end is NO Big deal. But you DO NOT want to strike that washer! The “smashed” end will become the top of your stake. Throw them into your 5 gallon bucket with the “Speed Black” when you treat your traps. Hang them to dry outside and then store with your traps in your clean 5 gallon buckets with lids. I like to buy “coils” of wire for use on my trap line and you can drop that whole roll into that trap treatment bucket and treat that wire also. Takes 3 minutes. Why not? You’ll want at least 2 quarts of that “Speed Black” mixed with the gas. 1 quart just doesn’t “cover” very well. Make sure your “new” traps have been degreased before treating. Scrub them with detergent ( Tide, Dawn ) and rinse with water. Set them aside for a few weeks and let them rust a little. The treatment will adhere better. If you can buy “used” traps that’s even better. Just wire brush, wash them to get the crude, rust and dirt off them, drip dry, and then treat. Hang to dry. Handle clean traps with clean gloves.
I’d be very happy to help. Here’s two videos to get you started and finished. The first is how to de-grease a trap, the second is how to rust and wax a trap. You might be surprised that we trappers actually want rust on our traps, but yes it’s true, we take our brand new shiny traps and turn them brown haha. Get a coating of rust, then the guy will tell you to dip your traps in wax, you can get it in Walmart apparently. I used vegetable oil and seasoned mine just like a cast iron pan, in the oven at 350°F for an hour. In hind sight, it is better than nothing in preventing any further rust, but there is some residual scent and the oil can pool in places if you aren’t careful and mess up your springs. Moral of the story is to do what the expert says and don’t mind me! I have a few coons’ to my name and that’s all I can say, but I know some links I’m happy to share!
Degrease:
https://youtu.be/3OyoXfQFvUU
Rust:https://youtu.be/Rmsy3TtPjwk
Be thorough, be smart, don’t be lazy, and you’ll catch something!!!
Happy Trapping,
Hunter Huhn
yes no problem
I trap Indiana , But not so much past couple years because I don’t know where to sell.. Do you know or have any suggestions?
I’ve been shipping my fur to Fur Harvesters Auctions. They are located in North Bay Ontario. They sell your fur for the highest price and then keep a % for their commission. I believe it is 11%. The fur goes to the biggest fur auction in the world at Helensinki Finland. I’ve had a few pelts sit in the Auction house for a year or more. However I find they get the best prices for my fur overall. A FHA agent should be in your area for fur pick up. Check out their website. The agents name and fur pickup date should be listed. May your traps be full.
There is a list of licensed fur buyers on idnr website just find one in you area
hey matt, im a fur buyer in Bloomington Indiana (812)340-2956 if this helps any my name is Don Edmanson
How’s the prices this year? 2020??
Thinking about getting into trapping and just wondering if it would be worth the time and effort…
Also if and when I do get pelts do you know of any reputable buyers in S.E. Kentucky?
Rhonda
This site looks like a winner!
Dear sir’s I would like to find out where I can purchase some .lynx and nice coyote hides to have tanned . If you have any sellers names / emails I would like to buy some .
Thank you. Carl
Low prices state of mn jacked season around nafa not taking furs very depressing for this trapper but my mama didn’t raise no quitter but on upside should be less competion lol
Got out of MN due to the DNR turning all outdoor activities including trapping into a hobby, with their ridiculous regulations., and they love giving out fines. Never had any competition besides a couple wanna be’s setting a few traps in the ditches., which ended when it cooled off.
A great area to trap, just ruined but regulations.
I second that. coyote can be hard to come by in Mn sometimes, but overall not a bad state to trap in IF your a resident. The MNDNR has ruined this state.
I live in western ny state. Ny state needs to set our bobcat and fisher season when the pelts are prime….setting the few week season when pelts dont bring potential top dollar is unethical.whats the difference if the same length season is in early fall or later on during prime pelt season.the answer i would say is ny state can still use us trappers for data they need on certain animals, but they should at least have the season when us trapper could make a few more bucks…would make more sense to me.
I believe we are a dying breed boys.
very well written
What are the fur prices for a healthy large groundhog I live in Michigan but have a groundhog problem in West Virginia.
Good prices or bad, fall winter in the woods with a hot cup of coffee, cold hands and sign that all 7 330’s are sprung is priceless
Enjoy the opportunity fella trappers
you can sell a whole animal sometimes but they give you a considerably lower price
Jon, I used to trap as a kid and am considering getting back into it. My step-father owned a fur business in eastern NC from the mid 70s through the early 90s up to about the time the bottom fell out of the fur market I believe due to all of the mink farms sprouting up in the US. Without boasting I can safely say I personally processed around 500 to 600 pelts of various species per season gradually from the time I was 12 until I joined the Army at 19 years old and that was after school.. Anyway, I would be interested in your trapping knowledge as well if you wouldn’t mind. my email is [email protected]
Take care
hi is this Don Hightower? if so, i saw your last name and its the exact name as my mothers, shauna hightower.
I started trapping 44 years ago as a 12 year old kid mostly Raccoon, muskrat, opossum, back then it was profitable and fun I can remember running about 6 miles in the dark before school and then whatever I caught I skinned, fleshed, stretched in the evenings, man I miss those good old day’s. I had a buyer that back then was in his 80’s very fair and respectable guy we would sit around his coal stove and listen to stories about trapping, hunting, fishing, and he always threw in some WW2 stories to it was nice growing up like that.
Yes I remember. I started trapping in the mid 70’s down at the near by creek. I was about 14 years old at the time. Muskrats and if “lucky” a Big Black Buck Mink. Checked my traps before and after school. Ole Man Cummberland the local fur buyer in Owatonna would slit down the inside of the Mink’s hind leg with his pocket knife and hopefully the inside of the hide would be nice and pale cream, white (prime) and he’d say. Ness that’s a good one. Give me 50 dollars for it. Unskinned! 50 dollars for a Mink in 1974. When I returned home (SE Minnesota) from 4 years in the Marines I started trapping with a “partner”. We had about 200 traps and about 10,000 acres we were allowed to hunt and trap on. Started trapping coons. mostly. 1980-1985 about 30 dollars a coon average. Hundreds of them plus Mink and Muskrats, Grey and Red Foxes. Beavers. Yes those were the days!! Some of the Best Whitetail Deer hunting in the World right out the front door!