When Walter Arnold talks of early snow putting a wrench in his trapping season, I can’t help but feel his pain. Here in northern Maine we can easily get dumped on with a big snow in November that remains with us until the following spring. Recently I found myself running my marten and fisher line on snowmobile in mid November. No matter where you trap, weather conditions will challenge your ability to be successful from time to time. The key is to find ways to be as adaptable as you can, and work to make catches in spite of challenging conditions.
The specific recommendations for gear and many of the methods below are severely dated. That’s a testament to how much the trapping industry has advanced and changed over the past 80 or so years. The purpose of reading through Arnold’s methods today isn’t to learn how to trap, however. Nowadays you can figure out how to trap foxes quite easily from a wide variety of online sources, and books and DVD’s. But there is a lot to gain from reading through the old timers’ writings to understand the thought process and mindset behind their methods, and then using that to better inform our modern trapping styles. In my mind, that’s the type of stuff that makes us better trappers.
Dirt Sets for Fox
Walter Arnold
First published in Fur-Fish-Game November 1936
The types of land sets employed in catching fox are varied, and the trapper must adjust his methods to each unique situation. Often local conditions can prevent the effectiveness of a certain type of set that may prove successful a hundred miles away.
Two years ago, my trapping partner and I commenced working our lines the opening day of the season. Our lines being very long, we had not intended to make any sets within two miles of our home town, where hunters are numerous. Around home there was about a quarter inch of snow, nothing to prevent the making of land sets, as this small amount would soon melt into water. However, as we worked north and into higher altitude, the depth of the snow increased until the third and fourth days out found us wallowing in snow, in some places six to eleven inches deep.
Naturally the making of land sets was entirely out of the question. It was not a very encouraging situation to meet up with at the opening of the season. We thanked our lucky stars that we both were well versed in the use of the water set. Ten days or two weeks later, part of the snow left and we got in a few dirt sets, but practically speaking our land sets were a failure that season. Down in the southern part of the state there was little or no snow at all until well into the season, and the boys depending upon their dirt sets experienced a great deal of success.
It is something like five or six weeks from the time the ice leaves the first pond or lake in southern Maine before it is out of the last one up around Mt. Katahdin in northern Maine. If one state can be subjected to such a diverse climate, one is prompted to ask, what would be the variations encountered by the ambitious trapper who might attempt to prospect such a broad expanse as the entire country?
The sets and methods described in this article are some of those we depend upon to take foxes, cats, etc. along our wilderness traplines. My partner and I are unfortunate in having little opportunity to work around pastures and farming districts where dirt sets are at their best. Our five years on our present lines have deprived us of this pleasure.
Every fox trapper in America may not find these methods adaptable in every respect to his own particular line. However, the basic principles of trapping are about the same in the various communities and make it possible to glean many a pointer from the advice of any successful trapper, regardless of his section of the country.
In addition to these methods, one of the secrets of outwitting the sly red fox is not to allow him to gain the impression you have designs on his welfare. He will do many foolish appearing things if not suspicious. He has been known to eat scraps thrown out by human hands, dig up empty shotgun shells from out of the snow and chew off the paper, follow snowshoe trails for miles, and do many other things that seem to defy the rules of the fox trapping game.
Traps to Use
The selection of suitable traps is usually the first thing to require the trapper’s attention. Here in Maine, where one must contend with more or less frozen ground, snow, crust, ice, etc., a large strong trap is required. The #2 Blake & Lamb is a favorite with Maine trappers south of the Canadian Pacific Railroad. The majority of the trappers operating in the heavily timbered sections of the state north of this road favor such traps as the #3 Gibbs, #3 Blake & Lamb, #3 Newhouse or Triumph, and the old #3 Kangaroo. While in the trapping supply business I sold thousands of dozens of traps, which gave me the opportunity to learn the most popular sizes in various parts of the East.
In localities where one does not encounter too much frozen ground or snow, the #2 Gibbs and the #2 Oneida jump trap are much used. Many traps have what is called a ‘hair trigger’. Small birds, snow, etc., may spring such traps before furbearers reach them. In such cases the pan rivets should be tightened so it will require a pound or more to trip them.
In nearly all dirt sets it is advisable to use two-pronged drags, as they are more convenient to cover than a big wooden clog. The majority of trappers also prefer an extra length of chain attached to the regular one as the animal is likely to become entangled more quickly.
Treating Traps
Old traps should be scraped and cleaned until free from rust and dirt. This will also eliminate much of the human or foreign odors. One way to deodorize and preserve them after being cleaned is to warm them first in the oven, being careful not to overheat and start the temper in the springs (thus weakening them). It is here a trap placer will come in handy. Use it to hold each trap while dipping it in boiling beeswax where it should be allowed to remain for about half a minute. The trap is then lifted up and allowed to drain. A clean paint brush may be used to good advantage at this stage of the work to brush off all the wax possible – the idea being to get as thin as a coat of wax on the trap as possible. After the wax has cooled and hardened, use a thin pointed knife to scrape the wax off the top of the latch, and out of the notch the latch fits into, when the trap is set. If the wax is not thoroughly removed from these two places, the trap will spring too easily. A coating of wax properly applied will protect a trap from rust for several seasons.
Another method which is especially effective in deodorizing and preserving new traps is to wipe the traps as free as possible from machine grease or other undesirable elements, then fasten them into bunches and bury in the muck of a bog and allow them to remain there for a couple of months. This will kill all odors, and if the mineral elements of the bog are anywhere near favorable, the traps will take on natural colors that will blend with the surroundings of most any type of set. Probably it is needless to mention here that any traps well washed and hidden away the previous season under rocks, roots, in old logs and other places will have the natural woods odors about them and be ideal for all types of sets.
Scent Control
After being cleaned and prepared, no traps that are to be used for land sets should be handled with the bare hand. A practical way to carry them is in clean paper bags. Gloves used in handling traps in making sets may be carried in a clean can or bag or in a separate pocket in the packsack, but never in one’s pocket. When there is reason to believe they have become contaminated with undesirable odors, either give them a thorough washing in clean water using no soap, or with the gloves on the hands, pick up a handful of soil and rub briskly between the face of the gloves. I often reach up and pull a handful of Balsam boughs and use them to rub over the gloves. I have found heavy canvas gloves to be satisfactory in my trapping. Now and then a trapper recommends rubber gloves. These are okay, but speaking from experience I can say that one is likely to suffer much from cold hands while wearing them. Those who do not wish to take the chances of working with gloves that have become contaminated accidentally while out on the trapline usually carry carry an extra pair. They will be appreciated many times, especially in wet weather.
Digging Tools
A digging tool is a necessary piece of equipment for fox trapping. Some of the most successful trappers prefer a long-handled mixing spoon with the point and one side ground to a cutting edge. My choice is a trowel made from an old garden hoe. A piece is sheared off from each side of the blade, leaving a blade about an inch and a half wide. The shank is heated and the blade straightened out into shovel shape. The handle is cut down to the desired length. Usually a total length of eighteen inches will suit one’s requirements. A long-handled trowel will enable one to prepare a set with his face at a safe distance from the ground, thus eliminating the danger of smearing the set with odors from the breath. Trappers carry this tool either in their hand while on the trapline or in a clean canvas case made for that purpose. It is probably unnecessary to mention to even the rank amateur that the blade and shanks should be kept scoured clean and free from foreign odors.
Bait
If one chooses to use bait at any or all of his sets, a special bait container will be found not only necessary, but most convenient as well. My choice is just a quart or two quart screw cap glass jar. A small iron rod is run through the cap and made fast. A cork or wooden handle is fastened around the inch and a half of rod sticking up above the cap. The lower end is bent into a hook, and when not in use the hook part is inside the jar reaching close to the bottom and with the bait, where it will collect no undesirable odors. A round canvas bag with shoulder strap attached is made to carry the jar in. If desired, it can be made a couple of inches higher than the jar, enabling one to carry a scent fold on the jar.
Trap Covering
Very thin wax paper is used by many to lay over the trap before the covering of dirt or other material is placed. One will usually find it most convenient to prepare these paper coverings at camp. They are cut into the proper shape to fit just inside the jaws of the trap with one end down under the loose jaw. A slit is made where it will come directly over the latch, which will allow the latch to flip up easily and ensure a free working trap. These papers can be carried in a clean envelope or box.
Personally, I prefer large leaves to wax paper, those of ample size where two or three will do the work. The latch will flip up between them if they are properly placed. The dirt trapper will soon learn that several hours of rain will wash away part of the covering, and if wax paper has been used there will be small white patches exposed and showing up most conspicuously. With leaves, however, any that are exposed after a rain will present a more natural color and appearance.
Footwear
The majority of trappers in this locality wear all rubber footwear, either in the form of rubber boots or the shorter type of rubbers. The legs and soles of such footgear are more easily kept clean and free from foul odors than the old type greasy leather tops. I make it a practice to step into the water every morning and give my boots a good rinsing before attending to any work along the trapline.
Dirt Management
In many instances one will dig out more dirt and sod than he has use for, and getting this material away from the set without leaving visible signs is always a task that taxes one’s patience and skill. Many carry a piece of canvas twelve or fifteen inches square, on which this surplus soil is placed and carried away as one leaves the completed set. This works very well if one is sure he can keep this article free from damaging odors. Other trappers use all the dirt in making the set, but unless conditions are favorable, the trap is likely to be mounded up higher than I like to have it. I have tried out various ideas and now believe that the most practical way is to use a new, clean paper bag at each set. A hundred bags cost but little. They can be placed in balsam boughs a few weeks before needed and all odors killed. Then each bag can be folded and wrapped separately in wax paper, providing a clean, handy container for this work. The most humble trapper should not complain of the slight cost of a clean bag at sets where such is required.
The soil along all traplines is far from being the same. Fortunate indeed is the trapper whose lines are laid out over loam or sandy land, as it is nearly impossible to prepare good sets in clay or part clay soil. When such an adverse condition prevails, the smart trapper can overcome this obstacle in two ways. He can carry suitable dirt during the summer and place it where sets are to be made, or he can carry dirt in at the time of making sets. Sand is probably the best for this purpose, but it is very heavy, and for that reason the trapper is more likely to choose common light loam or ant hill dirt. It seems to be a common belief that ant hill dirt does not wet through or freeze, but in this part of the country it will do both as quickly as any other soil. It is used a great deal, however, because of its lightness in weight and freeness of stones or sticks that might catch between the jaws and block a trap.
The Dirt Hole Set
The type of dirt set most commonly used here in the East is the hole set. One is likely to have a definite idea in advance as to the exact spot a set is to be prepared. At a distance of several rods from this place the trap is opened up. The tripping arrangement has been adjusted beforehand, so that when the pan is level with the jaws it is quite near the tripping point. With the trap and trowel in both hands, approach in a natural walk to the place selected. When one foot is placed about opposite the spot, halt. The feet are now held in natural stride and not turned in toward the set. The feet are never moved while preparing the whole set.
The set can be made in or at the base of an ant hill, small knoll, at the roots of an old stump, the side of a rock, in the bank of an old road, in the dead furrow of a plowed plot of ground, or at any one of the many promising places one can select from. For instance, if it be at a small knoll, commence at a low place and from the base out prepare a trap bed by removing sufficient sod and soil to make an excavation that will hold the drag, chain and trap. The surface of the trap should be a quarter or a half inch below the level of the ground. It may be necessary to place a little dirt over the chain and drag to provide a smooth resting place for the trap, and it is here that the paper bag or piece of canvas comes in handy to take care of surplus dirt, rocks and sod. Six or seven inches beyond the pan and in the base of the knoll, dig a slanting hole two or three inches in diameter, pulling the dirt out and filling the inside of the trap level with the jaws, but allowing none to work under the edges of the pan. Now place the wax paper or leaves over the top. The purpose of this is to protect the pan from becoming clogged, and none of this covering should extend out over the jaws. Any loose ends should be tucked under so that the dirt covering that follows will not work under and around the pan where it will harden or freeze.
Sufficient dirt is now pulled out of the hole to cover the trap a depth of about one half inch, allowing no stones or bits of wood to collect where they may become caught between the jaws when the trap is tripped. The bait or scent is now placed well back in the hole and care should be taken not to spill any outside.
This, as well as other land sets, can be made in fields and open country with little possibility of leaving a lot of human scent about, but in the woods where twigs, weeds, trees, leaves and the like are abundant, one cannot exercise too much care, as it is very easy to rub against a twig, touch leaves, or smear a branch with millions of smelly germs from one’s breath.
I know successful trappers who handle their traps with bare hands when making dirt sets. However, the traps are otherwise clean, and sets are made in sand or dirt loam. If a trap carries a bit of human odor when placed in a freshly dug bed and is properly covered with sand or loam, there is little chance of such odor working up through. But if the covering is ant hill dirt, soil from rotted wood, moss, or leaves, human odor is almost sure to filter up through and warn every sly red that comes along.
The Flat Set
A type of land set that proves very effective is made by preparing a trap bed close to a stump, rock, log or other object in the woods, field or along sandy beaches. No hole is dug, but otherwise go through the same procedure as with the hole set. The set is covered with the natural surroundings and no disturbances showing. Excess dirt must be carried away and disposed of when leaving the set. After the top has been properly covered it should be absolutely level with its surroundings. A few drops of scent is placed about six inches from the set or under the object, on the side that the trap is placed. Fox matrix scent or plain fox urine are commonly used in connection with this type of set. The best scent or bait to use in connection with any set is usually a matter of personal opinion. Nearly every successful trapper has his own favorite scent or bait. He may make it or buy it already prepared, but regardless of how he comes by it he is certain there is nothing else that will equal it. Sometime I would like the opportunity to learn and list under one heading all the different fox scents and baits used by the army of successful trappers, each of whom is convinced his favorite selection or concoction is superior to any other.
Practicing
Success at taking foxes in land sets does not depend so much upon some special lure or secret set, as it does on learning to master the art of making sets properly. One who has never taken these sly creatures will be greatly in error if he attempts to outwit them with his first sets. Many practice sets should be made until one becomes accustomed to the whole procedure. Learn how to work skillfully while standing in one awkward position, how to handle the trowel and place dirt with it, how to carry the necessary articles in the most convenient manner when approaching a proposed set, how to breathe without smearing the surroundings with alarming odors, and many other minor, yet important acts one must perfect before becoming a master at this interesting occupation. Additionally, if the beginner can locate suitable places where he can wade up a brook, or around the shore of a pond or stream and stand in the water while preparing land sets, his chances of success will be greatly enhanced.
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