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You can buy traps from the factory and use them without dyeing, but it’s not recommended. They’ll start rusting quickly, causing poor performance, likelihood of failure, and a shorter life span. Traditionally, traps were dyed with tannins from the bark and/or boughs of certain trees. They were then dipped in wax. The dye provided a thin layer of protection by binding with and coating the outer layer of trap steel, and the wax further protected them from rusting. The process involved boiling the traps in the dye and dipping them in wax before storing for use. It’s labor intensive and time consuming, but very effective, and many trappers still do it the old fashioned way.
In recent decades, a new type of trap dye has emerged and is growing in popularity – cold dip. Several folks have formulated dyes that traps can be dipped in without boiling. They dyes coat traps well enough that waxing is not necessary. The result is a quick process that provides long term effective trap protection.
Andy Stoe’s Speed Dip is the most popular of the trap dyes and is sold by most trapping supply dealers. Speed Dip is mixed with lantern fuel or mineral spirits (gasoline also works). The fuel dilutes the concentrated dip to the required consistency and helps it properly adhere to traps. Traps are simply dipped in the dye, ensuring they are evenly coated, and hung to air dry. New traps must be cleaned of grease before dipping, and a light coating of rust also helps the dip adhere better.
Other companies have made cold dips for traps. Aaron’s Trap Dye was a popular, effective coating that’s no longer manufactured. “KBL Quick Dye” is produced by Kaatz Bros. Lures, provides a coating very similar to Aaron’s, and is capable of coating a brand new trap with factory grease, eliminating the need for grease removal (though it’s still recommended). Dakotaline makes a trap dye that’s mixed with water, not fuel, and has met with mixed reviews. Predator Control Group makes “Full Metal Jacket“, a clear coating designed for land traps.
Cold dips have gained popularity due to their simplicity of use, but still have some criticisms. Many feel that the gasoline-smell from the dips can repel wary predators like foxes and coyotes from land sets. In fact, some trappers only dip their water traps and use traditional dye on their land traps. Most experts believe that all gasoline smell will dissipate from dipped traps within a few weeks, given adequate ventilation. Regardless, it’s great that trappers nowadays have multiple options for dyeing and coating their traps.
I recently ordered some KBL Quick Dye from Kaatz Bros. Lures. I’m giving it a try because in addition to KBL supporting Trapping Today as a sponsor, I like the idea that they’ve developed an innovative product that dries well and coats factory-greased traps. I’ll let you know how it holds up over time. What’s your coating of choice?
Heating would ensure that the pores in the metal would open, thereby allowing the dye to bond. It would also get rid of odour. Or say dip today, lay steel tomorrow. I’ve used logwood, sumac berries, walnuts to soak trap in. Rust will dye soon fine in a cold situation. Rust being porous will absorb soon. I have from my experience found that the stronger the dye solution, the quicker it will bind.
Boiling would ensure better job and clean the traps at the same time. I have seen people often stakes and stuff in a barrel of cold dye and leave them to sit for weeks.
If one is dyeing using logwood, wash your traps with degreaser, keep them exposed for a week or two to get a light coat of rust on them, put a nail/stick between the jaws to keep them open and put your traps in the container which has the right mix of trap dye and water and leave for a few days. This method would spare you building a fire and watching. Some go by this Cold dye method.
If it doesn’t rust naturally, spray vinegar to speed up the process.
Today there are many choices for trappers to extend the lifetime of traps. Natural dyes, paint, a dye are good options. But paint is fragile and wears out soon. Dye chemically bonds to the outermost layer of the steel, unlike the paint which just sticks to the surface. This attribute of dye makes them the natural choice for many wildlife removal services toronto (http://www.hawkeye.ca/pest-wildlife-animals) than paint.
Wax covers scent, but gathers scent over sometime, protects your trap from salt and moisture. It is dangerous to work with around the fire.
I have heard some people complain that dye allows rust to develop and wears off even before the first catch. They say simply because they give a dark shade for the trap doesn’t make them a better choice.
As with all trapping, condition and thus needs vary depending where and what you are trapping. This often forms the basis for arguments regarding “proper technique”. I learned long time ago not to dispute how a good trapper does things in his area because if it works for him that’s how he should do it.
I also learned a long time ago that mixing methods can be disastrous. In other words, if you glean parts of methods used by several trappers and mix them together they may not work at all. It’s often a set of methods that each uses that performs the best.
Dye as mentioned is designed to protect against rusting and in most cases, does a good job if applied properly (which ever type you are using). When I started out many years ago, logwood dye was the ticket. I still would use it over anything else maybe just because of nostalgia. To me part of trapping has to do with history. Logwood dye came from South America so to be pure I guess one would need to use walnut hauls or sumac or some other bark to be the most natural so its till a matter of preference. I have used them all. Problem with the barks is they are messy leaving strands on traps if not careful.
There are some soils that are so caustic that they will rust a dyed trap that is not waxed. And if you must use caustics to stop freezing like calcium chloride, they too will eat away at a trap. Even a week in the ground with these caustics will do it. Traps are too costly to allow that to happen.
I don’t wax water traps but I do wax land traps that will be used in either freezing conditions or some of the soil conditions I trap in. The main reason is that most of my land trapping encounters freezing weather and a waxed trap does not freeze down near as fast as an un-waxed trap does. I am not saying that wax will prevent all freeze downs, I am not saying wax will help all styles of traps from freezing down but in my case, it makes a difference.
A few years back I averaged $775.00 on my cats. Cat trapping starts Dec 1 and where I trap it is in the mountains. Freezing is a real issue as day time snow temperatures get to melting point because of radiant heat and then when the sun goes down and he cats start moving its freezing again. Conditions are tough because of continuous snow accumulation followed by constant melt off and wind making every precaution necessary. The most disappointment you can experience under such conditions is to see cat tracks all over a frozen trap! Never had to worry about it trapping Texas or the south but Montana, well she will hand you your hat if you don’t cover every possibility!
Wax is not a cure all by any means, as Edward said, “Wax covers scent, but gathers scent over sometime, protects your trap from salt and moisture.” Wax WILL absorb odors, so one must be extremely careful about contamination of waxed traps especially around canines.
As a trapper, I think the smartest thing we can do is to experiment and share information. As Jeremiah asked, let him and others know what your choice is and what you learn. It’s not going to be the same for everybody but by setting up a few traps in different ways and keeping track of how they perform you can learn a lot and help yourself put more fur on the stretcher.
Tight Chains.
Great insight and comments, Jim and Ed. Thanks for adding perspective based on your experiences. Many things to consider!