The Trapping Today “Trapper’s Starter Kit”

Are you new to trapping?  Do you want to learn how to trap?  A good friend of mine recently decided he wanted to get into trapping.  As any prospective trapper should do, he’s starting off by getting as much advice and trapping knowledge as he can by spending time with other trappers and attending his first major trapping convention. Nate is bound for the National Trappers Association‘s 6th Southeast Regional Convention in Williamston, North Carolina this weekend.  He asked me to give him some advice on what to purchase as part of his official ‘trappers starter kit’.  For Nate and other new trappers out there, the official Trapping Today Starter Kit is posted below.  If you think it’s inadequate, feel free to add to this list by posting in the comments section below.  Hope it helps!

TRAPPER’S STARTER KIT

TRAPS

6 – #110 conibears: These are some of the most common and easiest traps to use.  Best used for muskrat, mink and weasels in blind sets (trails, travelways) or baited cubby/pocket sets.  Also can work for marten trapping.

6 – #1.5 coilsprings: The 1.5 coilspring is probably the best raccoon trap you can use.  If you have the option, try to get these with offset jaws to reduce any possible paw damage and improve holding power.  They will work for coon trapping in land or water, and will also catch muskrat, mink, skunks, foxes, and other critters.  This trap is a bit too small for coyotes, but will take the occasional one.  I would recommend using Northwoods or Bridger brand if you have the option.

3 – #330 conibears: Aside from a few unique applications, the 330 is strictly a beaver trap.  If you don’t plan on beaver trapping, don’t pick any of these up.  If you do want to pursue beavers, the 330 is an easy trap to use and gets great results.  Make sure you buy special setters, because you won’t be setting these by hand!  Be sure to have someone show you how to set a 330 before going out in the field.  This is an extremely powerful trap that can be dangerous to those who aren’t experienced with it.  Alternatively, you could use #3 or #4 jump or double longspring traps and get great results with beavers.

6 – #2 coilsprings: These traps will be your primary land traps for coyote and fox sets.  They will also catch bobcats if used properly.  You should make it a point to get a high quality #2 trap if you’re pursuing coyotes, particularly the large, northern varieties.  Bridger, Montana, Northwoods and Montgomery brands come to mind.  If you can afford it, get traps with reinforced baseplates with center-mounted swivels, machine chain with mid-chain swivel, and offset, laminated jaws.  These modifications will all help hold those big, strong coyotes.  The #2 coilspring can be used for almost any critter from coyote-size and smaller, but it’s enough overkill for the real small critters that it should only be used at drowning sets if used on mink or muskrats.

12 – 3/32″ 7×7 cable snares with cam locks, deer stops and breakaway device:  Be sure to check the snaring regulations in your state, as these won’t be legal everywhere.  Snaring is a great alternative to other trapping methods, but can also get you into trouble if you don’t follow the rules or don’t have enough experience to snare properly.  Snares are extremely versatile and can catch most any critter.  Be sure to do your research before using these.

3 – Coon Cuffs: Coon cuffs are great for the beginner trapper.  A coon cuff is basically a dog-proof trap that specifically targets raccoon.  The trap is basically a small, spring-loaded metal compartment with a hole in the front.  Bait is placed inside, and the critter has to stick its hand in the hole to get to the bait.  When the hand goes in, the trap is set off, grabbing a hold of the paw.  Coon cuffs are expensive (usually around $15-20 each), but are a great investment.  They can be used in suburban areas where you are worried about accidentally catching dogs or cats.  They are both dog and cat proof, although skunks occasionally do get caught in them.

BAIT/LURE
At this point, I won’t try to sell anyone on specific lures.  Use a good, reputable brand of lure and you won’t have much to worry about.  You will want a good skunky call lure for land applications in cold weather, a bait-based lure for all predators, some fishy lures for coon and mink, and a few gland lures for specific species.  Talk to the old timers and read the catalogs.  Don’t go overboard, it’s easy to blow lots of money on lure that you will seldom use.  I’ve done it too many times myself!

OTHER SUPPLIES
Miscellaneous rebar stakes, 12-20″ long Iowa disposable stakes with driver Wire Trap dye or Speed Dip Trap wax Gloves, waders and gauntlets Trappers Hammer Trowel Dirt sifter Pan covers Odds and ends (stake swivels, s-links, chain, etc.)

SUMMARY
There are lots of other miscellaneous items you’ll need, but these are the basics, and should provide most everything a beginning trapper needs to get started.  Depending on the type of trapping you plan to do, you may even find that you can get by without a lot of the stuff mentioned above. Hopefully this starter kit is helpful in giving new trappers some ideas about what is needed to get started in the sport.  This is just a general list for informational purposes only.  Every area is unique and requires a unique set of tools to get the job done.  Be sure to talk with veteran trappers and get involved in your local trappers association.  You’ll find information from these sources more valuable than any guide or starter kit around. Good Trapping!